We have spent most of the festive period reviewing estancias in Buenos Aires Province and latterly we have been guests of David Cummings, “the English Gaucho”, at La Margarita, one of the most rustic and beautiful estancias we have visited this year.
David, invited the team (which includes little old me) from Argentina Countrywide to spend a few days over the festive period. It was glorious, truly glorious! David (an Englishman) really has his act together and provides the only Buenos Aires Province estancia stay where we have felt at home, at peace and truly ¨countryfied¨.
La Margarita, a Buenos Aires Province estancia, is located just 280 kilometres from Buenos Aires City´s Plaza de Mayo.
David an ex-musician, an earthy bohemian type, farms soya and ‘lords’ over a late nineteenth century French style Argentine estancia surrounded by nothing, that’s right, nothing, for a far as you can see, walk or ride. This is a truly idyllic getaway with horse riding, small game hunting in season and comforts of country home for well under USD100 a night!!! Fantastic value!!!
The feeling of space (a very precious commodity) and being at one with nature are key components of David’s estancia experience. This is not a five star estancia, David has this just right for those of us who are a little bit country and maybe not quite as rock ‘n’ roll as in the past.
We have eaten well, very well, and enjoyed early morning and late afternoon horse riding every day and lounged ‘like mad dogs and Englishmen’ with our books and mate by the pool.
Our able and loving guides Hero and Jak (two wonderful Pointers) have been our constant companions and showed us every nook and every cranny of the La Margarita estate.
There are many estancias that cater for guests who want five stars luxury living and specialise in those folks who require constant inspiration and entertainment. To my mind, these estancias do not really provide a true Argentine country experience, which has its origins on the traditional European country estates.
David has used his own experiences staying on some of the finest estates in Europe (those babies are amazing but think paying GBP500 to 2000 per night) to create a wonderfully traditional and comfortable oasis, retaining the all the best features of the last century and preserving cattle ranching and works around his land. As a result, La Margarita is a peaceful haven for guests who can relax without need of inspiration and for active types who are happiest outdoors engaging in country pursuits with great space and tranquility.
What David said:
La Margarita is all about location, being far enough away to avoid the crush of tourists suffered by estancias nearer to the capital, but close enough to enjoy a weekend break in a wonderful location without “the maddening crowd”.
Estancia La Margarita is a golden oldie, dating back to 1870 when Enrique Forgues, who was born in France, purchased 7000 hectares of land in Tapalqué and proceeded to create what is now know as Estancia La Margarita. In those times, La Margarita was a stopover for travelling gauchos and occasional courageous explorers who crossed the pampas on their way south.
At La Margarita, they changed horses and rested under the shade of eucalyptus trees, many of which still stand today. The region at that time was a relatively dangerous place; marauding Indians were an occasional threat as they pillaged private property and kidnapped newcomers if denied what they wanted.
A century and a half later, peace and calmness reigns at La Margarita. The estancia is in the heart of gaucho country, and the life of the pampas goes on in much the same way as it did in the 1800s. Horses are still the preferred method of transport when working on the estancia, just as asados are cooked and mate drunk in the same way as they were in those bygone days. In fact, in many ways, not much has changed in a vast, beautiful area where guests cannot help but be uplifted by the tranquil and stress-free way of life.
Enrique Forgues had three daughters. Two of them, Enriqueta Zamboni de Aguiló and Mercedes Aguiló, inherited the La Margarita at his death. The family continued to farm the estancia with great success for four generations. The family subdivided La Margarita over the years, with parts given to sons and daughters of the family. Huge amounts of land are still in the hands of the original inheritors, such as the 1000 hectares next to La Margarita owned by Diago Aguiló, great great great grandson of Enrique Forgues. Guest can see the enormity of the old estate on a map found in the main living room.
Enriqueta Aguiló, great great great granddaughter of Enrique Forgues, eventually inherited the estancia house. She farmed the land and opened the doors of La Margarita to rural tourists with great success. However, with her immediate family now living in the UK and with a growing need to retire, she finally made the difficult decision to sell La Margarita in 2006, ending its 137-year ownership by the same family.
David, a Cockney (London Born), former professional musician who had been living in France, first came to the Margarita as a guest in early 2006. He immediately fell in love with the estancia. When he learned that Enriqueta was thinking about selling, he immediately decided to make her an offer, which in her own words, was “painfully accepted.”
David is committed to maintaining the traditions of the estancia while updating its facilities. He explains his first encounter with La Margarita, “When I first sat in the galley with Enriqueta, I sensed something magical in the place. Surrounded by the huge, open sky, I felt revived and refreshed just by being here.” The experience is one David still has each time he is on the estancia, and he is determined to share it with others.
The estancia currently devotes itself to rural tourism, cattle breeding, and some agricultural activities. David invites guests to experience first-hand the beauty of the Argentinean Pampas and the authentic gaucho lifestyle, just as travellers would have 150 years ago with more than a few modern comforts thrown La Margarita.
If you want to visit La Margarita, just send us an email, the prices listed are due increase January 2010, but book through BA Stay and pay 2009 rates, this offer closes on 1 May 2010.
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